Onward and Upward

It's now the morning of the 12th Feb, the wind could be heard howling outside from my bed, wondering what it was going to be like up the mountain, as soon as we had finished breakfast, off we went. The long and winding road all the way up to Buzludzha was interesting to say the least.. At the lower part it was clear of snow and I was becoming quite concerned that there wasn't going to be any at the top.

As we drove up we saw locals on donkeys, and wondered where they might be going? and then a few minutes later saw some guys stood at the roadside next to a raging fire to keep warm, as the temperature was now at -6 and getting colder the higher we went.. They were lumberjacks, a pile of newly cut trees lay at the side of the road, while neatly sized bundles stood in a line, already prepared and waiting for collection, like these ones which were on the street outside our hotel. Theses guys are tough working in such conditions.

Steeper and colder, the road was now covered in snow, and again I am extremely grateful that Les is doing the driving, it is treacherous in places where the gale force wind has blown the new snow. 

The temperature has now reached - 10 almost at the top becoming  harder every corner turned, at one point Les had numerous attempts to get through a section where snow had collected and with only one set of tyre tracks already through it, he found it hard to stay in the tracks, but he did it.. I was holding my breath each time.

I was excited to see Buzludzha and Les was too even though this is his 3rd time here.. haha.. The enormous futuristic monument, has been on my list of places to visit for a few years now, after first seeing it I was drawn by its magnetism,, there is something magical and addictive.. not quite put my finger on it yet but I'm sure I will once I'm in there..

I see the structure right in front of me, it takes my breath away,  I am witnessing it with my own eyes.. such grandeur, a regal feel of power as it is perched right on the edge at the very top of this mountain.. it's imposing tower almost out of sight with low clouds moving in quickly.

There is a turning to the left where another part of this monument stands,, of two fists holding torches, which you can see here just to the left of Buzludzha, I can not tell you how windy and cold it was just to stand there and get this shot.. but the thrill of being here somehow, managed to control my shaking long enough..

Where we left the car

Did I know how hard walking up to Buzludzha was going to be..NO..all wrapped up and ready to go, tripod across one shoulder rucksack camera bag on the other, all the layers I could fit, scarf, bandana, coat gloves and off we go..

One step at a time keeping my head down and trying to follow Les in front without lifting my head too far.. The wind was biting feeling like needles in your face.. the nearer we got the harder it seemed. I have never (and neither has Les, who as I mentioned has been here twice before..) felt wind  like it before..We had to keep stopping along the way.. to catch our breath and rest, standing with our backs to the wind.. Les's face was bright red, he looked as if he'd just been on a beach all day in 80% sunshine..he was having to guard his face from the wind with his hand as we walked, but it still got him. I was ok my hood came down right into my face and protected me, I just couldn't see anything.

You can just see the tower popping up over the horizon.. I'm getting too excited! 

We are at the steps, they were the hardest part for me.. huge steps, built as if to keep people away, needless to say there was no-one up there that day.. which I am glad about.. It was great to have the place to ourselves. I really wanted to get some shots of Buz as we approached it for the first time, but there was no chance in that wind. I wouldn't even be able to hold the camera, these shots were taken on my Sony A600 which weighs next to nothing so I had it round my neck. 

Such a relief to get out of the wind.. Wow.. take a deep breath before the climb inside through a small hole in the wall, which bears a black hole drop beneath where you climb in.. it looks worse than it is. We quickly get inside, and immediately Les is on his arse, having slipped on the ice covered floor, which in turn made me not want to stand up once inside.. I dread falling on ice and could see nothing else.. it resembled an ice scaring ring. 

Past that, we next encounter steps which are also covered in ice, we crawled up them very slowly, with bags and tripods attached to our backs hoping not to slide down.. phew.. we managed to get up them.. the rest were fine. Now the moment I have waited for, which seems a lifetime..entrance into the arena.

Once again it's mesmerising, I take a moment.. its so quite even with the howling wind outside.. I feel like I'm making a connection. If you close your eyes you can imagine this place in its prime and splendour, the mosaic stories being told which cover the walls on both the inside and exterior of the arena, (although a lot have succumb to natures elements and have consequently been destroyed over time). The ones remaining are stunning, though currently covered in snow and ice I have no doubt I will see them in a different light before leaving here. 

Through the wind the sun attempted to show its face, but the wind won that one.. there were times we had no visibility whatsoever outside.. I wondered how the day might end.. but we were in there and if we couldn't get out that day we would have to deal with it.. I had already found myself a warm (well, not warm) but out of the wind, space which seemed warm in comparison.. 

The weather was incredible that day, so unpredictable.. I watched in amazement as the wind blew clouds across the valley between the mountains. 

This was the view out of the windows.
Les showed me a shrine in a dark passageway downstairs, which had been placed there following the death of a young man, it was supported by a cross, a photo of the man and a book, which had somehow been destroyed.

The wind blew around inside, it was sheltered more on one side than the other, so we generally stayed in that area, although at some points I had to go inside a narrow dark passageway to get away from the bitter biting wind and thaw my hands out. The water we had taken with us was now frozen in the bottle, and my lens had got covered with snow in the wind and that also began to freeze, as you can see in the next shot (right hand side- looks like vignette). I hadn't realised my lens was freezing, I thought the snow had got worse until I checked.. I changed lens and hoped that my tilt shift would be ok when thawed out, but that wasn't going to happen until we were back at the Hotel.

These shots show how cold and frozen the inside of Buzludzha was, the next shot shows my lens when it was freezing.

After almost 5 hours inside, and many many shots later, the sun was about to set, Les had mentioned wanting to capture this and I didn't want to get the same shot so took shots of the other side where there is an array of wind turbines in the distance, surprisingly they weren't turning.. god knows how in this wind. The sky was amazing that evening, gorgeous clouds and varying colours filled the horizon and a full bright red sun which resembled a humongous red nose in the sky.. well it made us smile :)

As the sun left us Les decided to try and get some shots from outside but we would have to be quick, the sun goes down like its being dragged down, you can literally see it disappear its that quick. We grabbed our bags and tripods, I didn't want to be a hindrance to Les getting the shot he was after, so tried really hard not to be such a girl and just get on with it.. Les forgot about the ice covered steps he was in such a rush, that he slid right down them and his bag followed. Out set camera up and shoot, it had to be that quick, i'm even typing quickly now because I'm talking about it.. haha..

I'm not sure if Les got the shot he wanted, I got a couple which I was really happy with, it was one of those situations where you have the most perfect sky before you and want to get the shot both inside and out, but the time it takes to get out of there, you need to have magic powers or be able to transport yourself from one place to the other..

All I can say is: WOW  what a day.. and massive thanks to Les I'm so happy he contacted me regarding my photography achievements with the BIPP but I'm not sure he thinks the same.. 

Les Johnstone you are my hero.. I would probably have never fulfilled my dream of paying this astonishing monument without his help, and its not over yet,, theres lots note stories to follow.

Starting now. On our decent, in the glow of that mesmerising sunset, the wind still fierce in our faces but its much easier and quicker going down hill, we both keep glancing back for one more look, as the sky just glowed, we wanted to get more shots but the wind and cold had got to us and all we could think of was getting back to the car and out of this wind.

The car- what a sight, yes now finally after freezing all day we could have some comfort and warmth, I was also desperate for the loo, I considered finding a quiet spot in Buzludzha but the thought of taking two lots of thermals and ski pants down and manage to not get any of them wet, or for that matter, I just decided to hang on. (Brave me)

What could go wrong after a perfect day, well we could get stuck in the snow, and we DID! 

No way, Les set off to turn the car around, and stuck we were. Wind blown deep snow had surrounded the car, and wheels were just spinning, I spotted some twigs, and grabbed them shoving them as far under the back wheels as possible, and crossed my fingers. Nope it didn't work, we both snapped branches off trees, used the mats out of the car under each wheel, got on our knees and tried digging the car out by hand, then used my tripod, and then found a pick in the boot,, this would surely work, Les hacked the ice that had formed round the wheels (it was that cold) but we were still stuck. I tried driving while Les pushed, and visa versa, but my energy levels were by now faded into obliteration. We sat in the car to give the matter more thought.. Les is a quiet well mannered and calm personality, but I could see he was getting stressed about the situation, I however knew we would get out.. 

Two hours later we were still there digging our way out, when a car came by, omg A CAR! No way.. it was now about 8pm.. and where we were no cars pass by, so this really was very lucky. Tow young men got out of the car and tried by pushing, then driving and resolving to using a tow rope, that did the job YAY we were out and couldn't thank the guys enough.

Down the long and winding road back to our cold Hotel, we come across the two guys who just helped us, they had gone round a corner too fast and ended up with the front end of their car buried in the snow.. It was our turn to return the favour.. after all one good turn deserves another.. I bet Les (being Scotish)was spewing though cos he gave them some money for helping us but they didn't give it back when we got them out.. 

It made us chuckle,, and we returned to the IT Shipka Hotel safely in the end..

Continuing the journey.

Well, this is long overdue I know, but climbing a mountain is hard work in deep snow, (hence I was too tired) especially when your not used to it, or have a fitness level of zero.. (like me) sometimes we would venture up there twice in a day.. it was almost 3 times one day, but much to my relief it was too late after arriving back from another trip, which I will talk about soon.

After meeting up with Les at my hotel (Ibis Airport) in Sofia (which was extremely new and very comfortable) I must say...
We chatted for about 10 mins.. before setting off..(I think he was making sure I wasn't some kind of weirdo/pshyco..) I hide it well...:)
The journey was about 3 hours to reach our destination in Shipka, where fortunately for me Les had booked the same Hotel. As we set off through Sofia, it only took 5 mins for me to be thankful that it was Les who was doing all the driving, after witnessing the lunatics on the road, most of them drive in the middle or on the wrong side.. In which case I would probably have been ok..

It was late in the afternoon, the roads out of Sofia were long, and with nothing much to see, It resembled the long stretches in America you see in films..since I haven't been I'm just guessing.
The sky was cloudy and as the sun was going down, gorgeous rays of light were streaming through the broken clouds, which spread to almost the full width on the horizon.. I commented to Les about this, and when he glanced he wanted to stop to get a shot.
Fortunately we approached a petrol station with a Burger King lurking behind.. this was a perfect place to stop, as we had neither eaten since early morning, and there was a car park.

We both grabbed our cameras quickly so as not to miss this amazing setting, and took a few shots from the main road.. The foreground was not as spectacular as the sunset behind, but we can do wonders on photoshop these days.
A quick bite to eat, coffee and away we go again, Les didn't want to be driving in the dark, due to past experiences, of hitting huge man holes in the road when his sat nav took him down an alternative dodgy route.

We arrive safely, and drag our cases up to the 1st floor on marble steps-NO lift, the fitness regime starts here. We ask if there is a chance of food and humbly our Hotel owners, Tosha and Ivan readily agree, we have half an hour until it will be ready, so unpack and freshen up after the drive. Dinner was ready on the dot, and it was amazing.. in fact it was so good I'm having it again tomorrow.

My room is spacious and basic, but I have my own bathroom and view over the rooftops in the village. Thankfully I had taken my own towel, which I'd wrapped my tripod in, I was glad because not only would the largest of the 2 complimentary towels not have gone around me, but they resembled coarse sandpaper, but came in useful when I flooded the bathroom after having a shower.. Oops!

I hadn't realised how far from the hotel Buzludzha actually was, and now even more grateful for Les being at my Hotel and very kindly offering to take me up there. I had looked on google maps before booking and thought it was just a short walk, when in fact it was about 8-9 miles..Arghhh.. If it wasn't for my hero Les I would probably not have even got up there.. The village of Shipka is remote and scarcely would you see people let alone a taxi or bus.

I'm sorry guys, but its 1am again, and my eyes are closing.. long day today marching with protesters all day.. but that's another story for after Bulgaria.
More soon.

Follow the Journey from Uk to Buzludzha in Bulgaria

Tuesday 10th Feb: 08:20 Zoe my daughter picks me up from home to take me to catch my coach which leaves the bus station in Huddersfield to Luton Airport. We take Leiland ( my grandson) to school on the way. After parking up we walk to the bus station and having spare time we decide to pop into a cafe adjoining the station. Coffee ( which tasted like hot watery milk) and a toasted currant T cake with god knows what on it.. That should have been cheese- it was the worst god damn Brekky I ever had and now, 6 hours, a packet oh Haribo and a fag later, I can still taste that disgusting mush..

Anyway. I set off.. Sat down, looked for a plug socket, because my phone died while I was asleep and I almost slept in due to this, and guess what!! NO plug.. The stress levels were building, finally I found one..and began to calm down.
A few stops later we emerge onto the motorway, at 14:40 arriving at Milton Keynes where my ticket states   a wait of an hour.. Whilst the driver sorted out the  baggage of people leaving the bus, I nip off for a quick smoke..not had I finished my fag.. and the driver was again in his seat.. Me being behind a gate then a barrier because it's no smoking everywhere, even outside.. I was slightly concerned that he was going to go without me..  I shouted to him are you going now "yes" came the reply.. As the guy with a high viz jacket who worked there thought he was security guard at the palace.. Watched as I approached the coach! With my FAG - in horror. I quickly dispersed of my nicotine fix and boarded the coach, in relief, but the plug socket didn't work and my battery was again running out after playing Bubble Witch to calm me.

Still confused about my ticket as to why it said the coach would be leaving Milton Keynes at 15:55 I studied the print out carefully!!!
OMG.. it says change coach..I watched traffic signs on the motorway, now very concerned that I should of stayed and finished my fix.. I saw a sign for Luton Airport, and hoped that the driver was just behind on time so didn't wait.. NOPE.. he didn't turn off at the Luton sign, I jumped out of my seat and sat next to the driver asking him if he was indeed going to Luton.. NO was the dreaded reply I received.. SHIT "I AM" I said in a worried, stressed and weary voice.."where are you going" he replied "London Victoria" oh Fuck..how am I going to get to Luton????

He smiled..I wasn't impressed.. "It's ok" he says theres lots of coaches going to Luton they are every half an hour. With this I relaxed because it was now about 15:00 and my flight wasn't until 20:50 I would still be there in plenty of time. As we approached central London he calls someone at the depot, explaining my situation and asked if it would be possible for me to jump on a coach to Luton when we arrive.. "yes, no problem, tell her to go to gate 11".


After arriving, I go straight to departures, and find gate 11.. empty..Hmm this doesn't loo good. A hot food stand was right next to me.. I could do with a coffee, and something good to eat after that awful breakfast, which was still lingering in my mouth. But I had no time to spare, I needed to get to the airport. I then found a board stating which coach was going where and from which bay..Nothing for bay 11, but there was one at bay10..across the road.
I rushed over there, I still wasn't sure at this time if I would even get on the coach, I had 10 mins to spare, but didn't dare go and get food & coffee in case I missed it. At last the driver came over and checked peoples tickets, the girl before me was showing her ticket on her phone.. The driver was stern, and explained to her that what she was showing was in fact a pic taken of a ticket, this was not acceptable she needed either a print out or the email.. I was now stressing that he would NOT let me on.. I explained what happened and he grunted and huffed, grabbed my luggage and I was on..YAY!!
At last I'm on the coach leaving London Victoria at 16:40 wondering how long it was going to take.

The coach drove all round London stopping every so often to pick people up, it was now rush hour and as we all know anywhere is bad at this time but LONDON is horrendous, fortunately the driver was no push over when it came to driving, he was ruthless, I guess you have to be in London, or you won't get anywhere. An hour has passed by, and we are in Finchley, I put maps on my phone to get an idea of how long it will take, from where we were it was another hour..ARGHhhhh..

Anyway, I arrived in time for my flight after all that.. I even had time for food and a spot of shopping, so I guess I should appreciate the fact I had a free tour of London thrown in.

I leisurely sat eating in Frankie & Benny's with my phone plugged in, charging it to make my all important calls before boarding the plane, I popped into boots and duty free, before making my way over to the gate..Suddenly I remembered that I hadn't purchased travel insurance..so quickly at the back of the queue, got my laptop out and began searching emails I had received quotes from insurance company's, No internet.. I had to fill out a form to join Luton Airports free half an hour internet connection- I'm on.. get my quote open, go to buy- NOTHING.. blank page, try again and again but no it doesn't seem to want my money.. the queue is going down, so i put it away and board the plane without it.

On the plane I am now getting excited about where I'm going, I can't sleep so start working on a presentation I'm doing at a photography club on my return. I don't have all the pics I need but at least I can make a start, which will save time when I'm back, as it's two days after.
On arrival, theres a duty free shop right next to the baggage collection.. WOW! off to buy some fags..
At Luton you can only buy them if you are flying to a NON EU country.. so maybe thats why this shop is here.. and to be honest it worked out better because they are cheaper haha..

Got bag, got fags, now to find my FREE transfer to my hotel..hmm no-one holding a sign with my name on.. its obvious to the local guys that try and earn some fast cash buy overcharging us stupid English people who can't work out the exchange rate or be bothered to..
A guy heads straight for me.. "No thanks" I say.."I have someone coming for me".. he follows me like Hank on heat..
Its 02:15.. I've had a long day, no-one is here for me,, so guess what? I took his taxi.. On our way to the car, he tells me about the other drivers and how they will take you all round Sofia to get to the Hotel which is less than 5mins away.. NOT him..he will take me straight there, even though I remember checking on the map how far it was from the Hotel, he seems to be doing a good job of making it seem further..
How much is that- BIG mistake.. I should of agreed a price before getting in the car.. "40 Lev without tip" he says.. "how much is that in £'s" he tells me its about £12.. and then wants a tip..haha. it was a stones throw from the airport and my transfer from the hotel was FREE.. I gave him the 40L and he was surprised I hadn't given a tip, and asked for another 20lev  "are you joking.. your tip is in there" he was almost begging me.. and I felt sorry for him, I remember a friend telling me how poor this country is.. who wouldn't try and pull a fast one given the opportunity, so I went half way and gave him 10. Fs, I'm a pushover.. wish I was loaded so it didn't play on my mind all night that I had just been ripped off.

11th Feb 2014

I had almost no sleep.. woke up when it came light, because I didn't close the curtains..oops
after struggling to open my eyes, I lifted my head to look out of the window, WOW!! mountains and snow.. the view was stunning, I had to get up..and go outside for a smoke, just so I could take in  the view.
Breakfast was good, lots of coffee, juice and continental food, back to my room for a shower, and lay down on the bed but can't sleep, I'm excited, but I'm getting my moneys worth out of this room since I didn't arrive till after 2am..
I'm currently sat in the lobby waiting for Les Johnson to land at 14:00 pick up his hire car and come for me.. More later.